McKenzie River Trail: Deep Trees, Turquoise Water

Enjoy this beautiful forest trail --- but watch out for the mountain bikers.

If you plan to hike the McKenzie River Trail and hope to enjoy a peaceful journey, DO NOT go on a weekend, when hordes of bikers storm the 26 mile trail which descends gradually from Clear Lake and follows the McKenzie downstream.

But if you can go mid-week, either for some day hikes or backpacking longer stretches of the trail, this is one of the prettiest places in Oregon.

The trailhead starts near Clear Lake.

If you want a series of day hiking adventures, consider camping here or renting one of their cabins. Clear Lake has an easy 4.6 mile trail circling the lake. One side crosses a lava field, and the other side is in the deep shade of the trees.

The McKenzie River Trail joins Clear Lake trail to the southern end of the lake and then splits off, heading south.

After crossing the highway, the trail intersects with the falls loop, a nice 2.6 mile day hike. The McKenzie River Trail crosses the river and heads south on the west side, while the east trail heads down to the tourist parking area for the spectacular waterfalls. The trails re-connect via a gravel road at Carmen Reservoir.

Sahalie Falls, west side

Sahalie Falls, east side

The falls can be seen on the west side as well. 

Along the trail the McKenzie River tumbles into white water eddies with turquoise pools.

After this watery spectacle, the McKenzie goes underground, re-appearing at Tamolitch Pool.

The four miles from Carmden Reservoir to Tamolitch is lovely, most of the time it is far enough from the highway that you don't hear the traffic.

Tamolitch Pool can also be accessed by a trailhead 2 miles south. This is another popular day hike on the McKenzie.

After Tamolitch, the trail once  again follows the McKenzie River. Our stopping point for our recent one-night trip was the campground at Trail Bridge Reservoir, 13 miles from the Clear Lake trailhead. 
The next day we hiked back. If we could have taken two cars, it would have been nice to hike to the south end of the trail.
Then again, after 13 miles of downhill the day before, it was a relief to my knees to turn around and go gradually uphill for a change!
 
When we came to the falls loop and the lake loop, we took the opposite side so we could experience those features from a new perspective. I'm glad we did.
Here is a MAP! (scroll to the last page)

Table Rock Wilderness

Looking East from our farm, when the Cascades are not obscured by clouds or haze, I always look for Table Rock. My kids grew up hearing me sigh:

"this would have been a perfect day to hike Table Rock".

They got sick of hearing me say that.

Now  I catch them eyeing that place in the skyline and sighing too.

Near the top of Table Rock,  Mt. Hood comes into view

The first mile or so of the trail was added after a landslide took out part of the access road. You will notice that the trail cuts up into the forest to get around the slide.

 I love the young hemlocks growing there.

Then the trail re-connects with the old access road until you reach the original trailhead. This part is mostly flat.

Alders form long green tunnels reaching over the road for much of this distance.

And there are wildflowers.

From the original trailhead the route climbs steadily up, winding around in long switchbacks with occasional views. Go in early summer before  field burning, and the summer forest fires thicken the skies with muddy smoke. Wear good hiking shoes, bring plenty of water.

The trail scrambles over a rock slide, and then under these basalt columns. Listen for the pikas who live in the rocks.
Wildflowers love these exposed sunny spaces.

After another set of switchbacks in the trees, the trail opens up to the top. 

This hike is a bit over 3 miles one way, and climbs about 1000 feet. 

Three Fingered Jack,  Mt Washington, Three Sisters, Broken Top?

Mt. Jefferson

Mt. Saint Helens, Rainier, Adams

This trail has become popular and gets very busy on weekends. Here are links for more information on this essential Oregon trail.

BLM PDF map & guide

Info & many photos

A Sampling of Norwegian Movies and more music from Norway

I had a Norwegian bachelor farmer-uncle.

Fans of Prairie Home Companion will understand this reference!

He lived in a tiny cottage on our farm, and played the accordion for dances in his youth. I inherited his beautiful push button accordions, but not his talent for playing them.

How his music made me dance! Especially my favorite tune. Sadly I never learned the name. It took me years of searching, but I finally found a recording on Itunes.

Here it is, along with more cheerful Norwegian dance tunes that remind me of Uncle Andrew.
For more Norwegian music presenting a mix of traditional and contemporary influences, see my earlier post: The Many Sounds of Norway.


For movies featuring Norwegian bachelors, scroll down!


Akkurat Den Same, Reinlendar
Embrik Bergaplass
Youtube







Ormevekkjaren
Tom Willy Rustad
Youtube





Trondhjemmer'n
Jorun Marie Kvernberg & Øyvind Sandum

Youtube of an accordion solo version - live performance
Reminds me so much of my uncle!


Movies
For several weeks now we have been watching Norwegian movies found through Netflix and borrowed from the library.



Our favorite so far is Elling.
Set in Oslo, Elling is overcoming his fears with the help of his new friend Kjell Bjarne.
It's just too funny and sweet. I want to watch it again.
Rated R - for discussions about sex and language





We were totally unprepared for O'Horten.
Until the very end of this movie, we kept asking "Is this movie ever going to make sense? Was there a plot at all?
Then there was the resolution - to a conflict we were not entirely aware existed - in the last few minutes of the film - and we agreed we were glad we had watched this quirky and brilliant film.
Rated PG-13 but there is some brief nudity.





We tried a few movies that took their inspiration from Norwegian Folk Mythology. Of course we watched Trollhunter when it was on Netflix last year and has become something of a cult classic. Of the new releases we tried in this vein, we found Ragnarok very entertaining. A single father/archaeologist takes his kids on a hunt for Viking treasure. Action adventure, beautiful scenery.
PG-13

Scan Fair, Discovering Norwegian Traditions in Oregon

As the name implies, Scan Fair, a  Scandinavian Heritage Foundation event, combines several Scandinavian cultural traditions, and it is a good place to see some fine traditional crafts, sample delicious food, and to meet representatives of the Sons and Daughters of Norway Lodges in the Portland and Salem area.

One of them eagerly told me the secrets to making good lefse.
Another enthusiastically gave me her recipe for authentic Norwegian Poached Cod. I can't wait to try it.

And it does not get much more Norwegian than this. I watched this kind of conversation when I visited distant relatives in Norway decades ago: the brightness of the eyes, the quick and sincere warmth, bonding instantly over a proud heritage.

Yet another booth representative encouraged my husband and I to join them on Monday nights for traditional Norwegian folk dance. My husband is resigned that this "Norway thing" is more than a weekend excursion.

On the right: Hardanger fiddles by Lynn Berg, Oregon.
For more about these, see my earlier post.

There were many booths showcasing Rosemåling, a traditional Norwegian folk art 

similar to tole painting. This display won my heart.

I enjoyed talking to this vendor. I wish I would have purchased one of her kits to 

make traditional Norwegian braided trim.   It looks like so much fun.

Candidates for the 2015  Lucia Crown

The Many Sounds of Norway

I've been collecting Norwegian music for years, but our upcoming Norway Staycation is all the excuse I need to do a little more research.

Traditional Folk Music of Norway 

Norway's folk music is much loved and continues to be taught and celebrated.
Here is a great website to learn more.

One thing that sets this music apart is the haunting sound of the Hardanger Fiddle (Hardingfele). These amazing work-of-art instruments are tuned differently from violins, and have additional strings underneath that provide extra resonance.
(Fiddle pictured on the right by Lynn Berg)

You will also hear other instruments unique to Scandinavia, and accordion, especially in dance music.

In many recordings there is foot stomping, an important percussive element

Stølskinna Sigmund Eikås

to help the dancers because many of the traditional songs can have such
 elaborate rhythms it can be hard to follow!

One of my favorite aspects of Norwegian folk music is the unaccompanied vocals that truly treat the human voice as an instrument.

All that said, my favorite recordings tend to blur the lines a little between folk music and contemporary styles.
Links go to Amazon, but these should also be available on Itunes.


Vrikkjaren
Spindel
From the Album Aminje
I LOVE this piece. It was my ring tone for years,
and everyone would ask about it.
Youtube

Når mitt øie, trett av møie
(When My Eyes, Weary of Toil)
Oslo Kammerkor
From the Album Strid
Oslo's Chamber Choir
Contemporary Choral Works based on Folk Music
Absolutely stunning ~ the whole album
Youtube



Snåle mi jente 

Kerstin Blodig
From the Album Trollsang
(Troll Song - That's why she is made up to look like a Troll)
live performance youtube

Numedalshalling
(Billy Goats Gruff)
Bukkene Bruse
From the Album Steinstolen (The Stone Chair)
I love this whole album
This group was selected as the official Olympic Musicians for the Lillehammer Olympic Games and performed at the closing ceremony. (Wikipedia)
Youtube




Den Store Trasten Forelskar Seg
Tindra

From the Album Lukkeleg Vaking
Playful Indie Acoustic Sound
Youtube





Halling
Jon Faukstad & Per Sæmund Bjørkum
From the Album Slåttar Frå Torger Olstads Notebok
Dance Music with  Hardingfele and Accordion
Toe Tapping!
Youtube

Solistvals (Soloist's Waltz)
Berit Opheim Versto
From the Album White Night: Impressions of Norwegian Folk Music
I may have to buy this whole album.
This track is so joyful.



No Skal Eg Fortelje
(Now I'll Tell)
Sigrid Moldestad
From the Album Sandkorn
Sigrid has recorded many beautiful ballads,
but I like this spicy piece. I have no idea what it is about.
Youtube

A Little Bit of Norway

My daughters want to celebrate Lille Julaften, or "Little Christmas Eve" on December 23rd: a holiday tradition revered by my Norwegian Grandmother.

Leading up to this we will be lefse rolling and possibly making Krumkake or Berlinerkranser, Fattigman or Sandbakkels. My daughters have requested lutefisk. Why?????

And I'd love to put on a lovely Smörgåsbord. Too much for one day! Uff da!

My Grandmother would not understand this American impatience to do everything at once. Her dinners were never over the top spectacles, but simply and beautifully prepared, graciously served love feasts.

Grandma Rebecca and all the Grandchildren

That is why I miss them so much. Why my daughters are tired of hearing about them and want to start their own traditions.

But it will take some doing to get my inner Norwegian jump started. I need to go to Norway. Or the next best thing.

I need to go to the ScanFair just two weeks away! With music, crafts and many Norwegian delicacies.

And to remember Grandma I will need to spend some time by the water. As a child she lived in Southern Norway, on a farm next to the lake where she fished in the summers, and in the winter learned to ice skate by pushing a chair across the ice!

One reason Oregon attracted so many Norwegian settlers is because it is so similar to Norway's rugged beauty. I'm sure we'll find the perfect lake.